We cross the Grodzka Gate and enter the Old Town, where Jews could not legally purchase real estate until 1862, in accordance with the privilegium de non tolerandis Iudaeis (Latin for “privilege of not tolerating Jews”). Though the law allowed for exceptions, it was officially lifted only through reforms introduced by Russian Governor Alexander Wielopolski in the 19th century, when Poland was non-existent politically, having been partitioned by its neighbours. Only then were Jews made equal in their rights with the Tsar’s all other subjects. The serfdom of peasants was also abolished at that time, which liberated them from de facto slavery