Moving on, stroll past the altar toward the other standing columns. Fortune, as always, is a cruel mistress—the least important temple in the sanctuary is also the most visually striking, thanks to an inspired Italian restoration that heavily favored Roman architecture. We do not begrudge the efforts of the archaeologists who laboured eighty years ago to give shape to an amorphous mass of fallen stones. On the contrary, we celebrate their efforts by walking around the temple with the seven standing columns (in any direction you like) as we enjoy the stories about the temple’s divine owner and his maddeningly bad luck in matters of the heart.