Among the few buildings still in operation is the small coffeehouse / tavern across from the old custom house. You can’t miss it, just follow the smell. This is a no-frills place; the interior is plain and wood is the dominant material. When you go in, you might feel out of place, as the old woman who runs the establishment (her name is Maria) comes up to you and asks you what you will have. Coffee is always an easy option (her Greek coffee is excellent) but you are also well-advised to taste the food. There is no menu, just ask for whatever is available. Most locals between here and Arta are well aware of the delightful delicacies prepared in this kitchen.