Exploring Nafpaktos (especially in the summertime) can tax body and soul. But here is a small paradise of bubbling streams and leafy plane trees to refresh the weary traveller. It has been so ever since Evliya Çelebi visited Nafpaktos. He noted the hundreds of tall poplars and plane trees, planted in orderly fashion by kings long gone to offer their cool shade to tens of thousands of sheep (ok, today the sheep have been replaced by coffee shops). This was heaven on earth, noted by Greeks, Arabs, and Persians who commented on the water mills and the crystal clear waters. There were also tables and chairs in the shade of the trees, but the stores and the kitchens were not in use back then (they are now).